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Thanks, I think the job is a lot easier with the mounting plate removed as in the video

Thanks for the kind words. Did you have the parking brake released as that would have made the spring a little easier to stretch? I am 71 and I was able to attach it very easily. In any event I am glad you got the job done. I think the job is a lot easier when that mounting plate is removed as in the video. Thanks for watching

The videos I have posted on this kit have been by far my most popular. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.

It is very strongly magnetic. When you hook your cart up to the ride on, instead of bending way over and struggling with a cleaves pin you simply insert the magnetic hitch pin. The magnet nicely holds the cart very well attached to the ride on. When you are done and want to release the cart just simply pull the pin by the handle strait up and out. I am now in my 70s, before I purchased this hitch pin, I had to get down on my knees to attach my cart, then have someone help me up LOL.

Yes, I think the only difference is you have a manual power take off and I have an electronic takeoff. I would much prefer the manual take off as the electronic one I have will cost a lot of money when it finally fails.

I did the repair more than 5 years ago and as far as I know the car is still on the road so I must have done something right.

thanks, glad I was able to help.

Yes, at some point I plan to get one, that will make a good video, thanks for the suggestion

I'm not just a slow talker.

They can be tough! I wasn't sure if I was going to get mine off, it was more than a little scarry. I did not want to use heat because of the aluminum spindle. However, if you must cut the bolt and the spindle gets damaged, they are easy to replace. You can find a replacement spindle for about 50 dollars depending on your machine. Let me know the outcome if you can.

I have been sliding the race off with an air hammer since the 1970s. I understand they have a special tool for that now, but I am an old dog. I have never considered using a torch, but I am going to try to find one of those videos out of curiosity.

Honda is a nice vehicle; they look good, ride nice, and are very quiet. But do they ever suck to work on! I have an Accord in the shop as I am writing this reply. My nephew had it towed in with a broken drive axle earlier this week. He gave up on it after the first day and has not been back. Now I have got to finish it unless I want it as a permanent onement in my shop.

It took me a while to figure out where they had hidden the adjustment.

The rase is the inner part of the bearing. You lost me

Yes, the kit can be used in the vehicle, I believe I mentioned this in the video. I had the knuckle out only for visual clarity. Furthermore, if one does not have access to a bench vice, using the kit while the knuckle is still in the vehicle is the only way to go.

I am sure there are kits available that are heavy duty. However, the kit used in the video is not. The kit in the video only goes for about $60 on Ebay. I have had numerous complaints from people who have stripped the jackscrew while using a power tool, In the video I cranked it by hand as you may have noticed.

LOL, very much so. I am about 50 miles southeast of Boston near Cape Cod. I picked up the accent from a little of both places. Right now, I have a rust belt Honda in the shop, it has been a nightmare so far. Enjoyed the conversation, by all means don't be a stranger.

They are both lubricants, the anti-seize covers better and has rust inhibitors. The brake grease however is a much better lubricant. That is why I put anti-seize under the abutment clips because those are stationary. I want to prevent rust build up between them and the carrier bracket. On the top of the abutment clips I like to put actual brake grease. This is because the lubrication quality is much better. The top of the clips are in contact with the pads as they need to slide back and forth when you apply / release the brakes. Sorry I was so long winded. I hope I answered your question.

Thanks, When I decided to replace the rear wiper blade for the first time, the only information I could find instructed me to remove the arm nut, then rent or buy a special puller to get the arm off. At the time I thought that ridiculous and knew there had to be an easier way. After I played around with it, I realized there was just enough flex available to flip the blade around, so I went ahead and posted the video. I am glad you found it and found it helpful.

In the older machines, it was much easier to remove the tank. I could not find any information on how the remove the tank in these XT machines. Once I worked out how to do it, I posted the video. It is very rare these days to be able to post something that has not already been covered. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.

My wife does not think so, thanks for watching and the kind words.

Thank you for such a thoughtful post and your very kind words. I do not like to duplicate content that is well done on RUclips. In researching this job, I saw nothing that could be considered helpful to anyone. In all cases camera work was poor, explanations were difficult to follow. No one explained that you engage the brake to release tension on the belt and disengage the brake to release tension on the springs. It was a very simple step to remove the mounting plate and made the job so much easier.

Given the amount of work to get at the chain I would replace them needed or not, most kits come with guides and gaskets.

LOL, tell me about it. Wish you were around a few days ago when I was cleaning dirt and rust out of my mouth, nose, and ears.

@@richardspaulding5035 Well to be honest I usually remember after it is too late ....

@@helfrie LOL

Let me know how you make out. This repair was some time ago, it says 4 years. She never got it aligned and I saw no unusual wear on the tires. Sadly, she no longer has the car as a tree of all things fell on it during a winter storm. Good luck.

Yes, they are available for some vehicles

I do not understand your point/ The kit is not capable of pressing the hub out. You need a shop press for that. I don't know what kind of car you are referring to but the one in the video has only one clip to remove???

thanks to you for watching

Thanks cardo; As always great to hear from you.

I have had some criticism for recommending anti-seize due to heat generated by the brakes. Under normal usage brakes will generate about 120 F and up to 200 in stop and go. More if you have problems. Permatex can withstand 1600 Degrees, If they are heating their brakes to a temp greater than 1600 degrees then they have lots of problems. LOL

Thanks, I find the tool most useful for rear caliper bolts

In a recent comment I was criticized for putting anti seize on the hub bolts. I saw no harm as I torqued them to spec. I was trying to make it easier for the next guy given that they were so difficult to remove. The viewer suggested it would have been better to let them rust in place so that they would be less likely to work their way out. I just wanted to put that out there as you can make up your own mind. I am glad the video was helpful, thanks for watching.

Anti seize is always best to use in assy. I built military vehicles for 16 years and they use a lot of anti seize. You made a great video. There's always going to be someone out there that wants to cry about something. Thanks again.

@@darceedarcee Thanks, I guess it is the nature of going public. The overwhelming majority of comments like yours are very positive. However, every once and a while I do get what I call a hater.

Thanks, I think lubrication is the most neglected part of a brake job.

@@richardspaulding5035 appreciate you

@@marks5625 Thanks, I greatly appreciate the comment and your viewership.

@@richardspaulding5035 thanks for teaching us🙂👍🏽

No, I use it all the time. I also use a product called euro paste.

@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks

Thanks, found that chemicals just smear the stuff around. Dry cloth rubs it off very nicely

Yes, it sucks that it is all one piece, and it is not cheap!

Get them in and out as quick as possible. i got to spend some time i a Honda dealership some time ago. They have brake kits all assembled and ready to slap in. The calipers and brakets are all preloaded & lubricated with pads hoses and hardware, Rotors are package alongside. They can do a complete brake job in minutes.

I would hope at some point they would redesign these caps; however, I think they make too much money on the repairs.

Well, that's a first, thanks for sharing, I think.

No, what will happen is your vehicle will die on the road due to fuel starvation. The fuel pump will suddenly stop working. The only way your battery will go dead is if you keep trying to start the vehicle until you run the battery down. If you listen carefully every time you put your key in the on position you will hear your electric fuel pump, come on for a few seconds. If you do not hear the fuel pump, come on then chances are it is the integrated fuel pump relay in the TIPM. If you had the foresight to purchase the cable and keep it in the vehicle you would install it as instructed, simply restart the vehicle and be on your way.

@@richardspaulding5035 OK. Thank you for the explanation.

Not a bad idea.

I am glad you found my channel and found the video helpful, thanks for watching.